September 2005

RENDEZVOUS IN BELGIUM

Last September, I spent four of the busiest days of my life looking after a group of Scottish producers and musicians who were invited to participate in the Fete de Wallonie in Namur, in French-speaking Belgium. Imagine a few weeks of Edinburgh’s Fringe festival crammed into four days, and you begin to get an idea of what it was like.

So would a return visit disappoint? Not at all. An hour’s flight from Prestwick to Charleroi or from Edinburgh to Brussels, a short drive and you will find a beautiful town nestled where the Sandre and Meuse rivers join. It is an ideal place for a weekend away for food lovers.

Namur Castle and the Sandre River

The cuisine has a French influence. However the restaurateurs are ready to pair a delicious fish dish with South African wine, or to include flavours such as coconut on their menus. Fresh fish abounds. There is a thriving food market, coupled with streets of more general stalls filling the streets each Saturday morning. Amongst the warren of roads nestle patisserie shops, chocolate makers, tea and coffee purveyors, charcuterie and cheese shops. The Namurois love festivals too from Music to theatre and enjoy a glorious Christmas market held throughout December.

Our favourite restaurants:
Les Temps de Cerises, 22 rue des Brasseurs, 5000 Namur, 081 22.53.26

Dominique Renson has created a warm, welcoming, rustic restaurant with a fascinating décor – you could spend hours reading the messages written artistically over the walls. At Dominique’s table near the kitchen you are likely to find a mix local shop owners who drop in for a chat, a glass of Florange (an orange flavoured aperitif created by M. Renson) or for a meal. We particularly enjoyed the amuse bouches including an intense fish bisque; the salt cod partnered with a confit of tomatoes and with aubergine and Pollock with a hazelnut crust and coconut sauce and crème brulee au florange. The restaurant features many fine meat dishes too. Main courses from 15 euros.

Les Embruns, Rue le la Tour, 5000 Namur, 081 22 74 41

One of the 12 winners of the “Grand Prix de la Bonne Cuisine Tradition 2004” awarded to small and medium sized restaurants by Le Guide des Connaisseurs, this restaurant opens for lunches only except in Summer and Friday and Saturday nights. Started as a fish shop, this restaurant still retains its fish counter. Friday lunchtime saw it full at midday. With a set menu for 22 euros, you are spoilt for choice. We particularly enjoyed: A beetroot “amuse bouche”. (We were urged to eat this foam/froth quickly, it was so delicate. The beetroot flavour exploded upon your tongue); A delicious Moroccan influenced dish, sea bass served on a tomato-y broth and couscous, and a savoury concoction of shrimps.

Namur Tourist Information

Pierre Marcolini Chocolates, Rue Saint-Loup, 4 • 5000 Namur • Tél : + 32 81 22 44 22

Les Thes de Sophie, Rue du Marché 1
5000 Namur