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June 2004 This month, Discover the Taste regulars Caroline and Phil Jones' trip to Gordon Ramsay in London. A visit to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea(3 Michelin stars. 10/10 in the Good Food Guide) The excitement started with the reservation. Having identified a particular Friday as a date we could go (the restaurant is not open on Saturday or Sunday), I plucked up the courage to phone ; and was politely but firmly told that they only take bookings one calendar month in advance, from 9 o'clock in the morning. One month before, I started dialling at 9 and got through at 12 minutes past, to be told that only slots of 6.30pm or 9.30pm remained for the Friday. Deciding that we wanted to be able to make the most of the experience, I opted for 6.30pm. We were in! On the date at 6.30pm we bounded expectantly in. The first impression was of the large number of staff: we must have passed through 6 pairs of hands on the way to our table, and we subsequently heard that the ratio is something like 50 staff to 45 diners. The set up was very formal and hierarchical; however, everyone seemed very pleasant and we were soon put at our ease. There are a few updated touches, too; before receiving the menus we were asked who was "hosting" the evening, which we worked out was code for who was paying and who therefore got the menu with prices on. After a glass of champagne to start (as suggested), and the perusal of the menu over two waves of amuse-bouches, our orders were taken by a charming Frenchman whom I take to have been Jean-Claude Breton, the "restaurant director" (recently featured in "Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares", showing staff at the Walnut Tree how to carve a chicken). We had gone with the idea that we would probably go for the 7 course "Menu Prestige", since this would most likely be our only visit; however, we both agreed that the Menu Prestige on the night was not as exciting as the a la carte so we went for the latter. A nice touch was that we had been presented with the dessert list at the same time, in case we might want to order a dessert which took an extra amount of time to prepare (and in case we wouldn't want to wait the extra minutes); so it was probably the assiette of *all* the desserts which swung us towards a la carte ! While discussing the options and further describing various dishes, Jean-Claude established that it was our first visit and presumably picked up on the fact that we were keen foodies and very excited, in a very uncool, non-London way! The sommelier was also very helpful and non-intimidating and we were happy to let him help us choose the wines, after we'd mentioned a few we were thinking of (to give an idea of our budget!). In fact all of the staff were helpful, totally professional and efficient without being obtrusive. (I do love that thing where someone silently appears to guide you discreetly to the loo, without you having to ask.) The full list of what we ate and drank - as far as I can remember! - is given below. While we were having a breather before dessert, Jean-Claude returned to ask if we were enjoying everything and if we'd like to visit the kitchen later. So we said we would and he returned after dessert to escort us through. Although I hadn't really expected to find Gordon Ramsay himself in there, cooking, there was still a slight pang of disappointment when we were introduced to the head chef whose name I forget but who wasn't GR. They had obviously chosen a quiet point to take us through so it wasn't very enlightening except that the kitchen was smaller than you might think : both it and the dining room were only the size of good-sized domestic rooms. After the kitchen visit we were asked if we would take our coffee in the small bar area: guests were still arriving but it was by now past 10 so we certainly hadn't been rushed. Even the chocolates with coffee came in three separate waves, and a nice touch was the small box we were given to take away leftovers in! While taking our coffee, and after we'd asked if we could have a copy of the menu to take away, the great man himself arrived - in a chef's jacket, so presumably he shuttles between his restaurants to keep an eye on things. The next thing we knew, and a nice way to finish the evening, he came over asking to whom he should sign the menu, with a kiss for me and a handshake for Phil! So all in, all quite an evening. Verdict on the food : Phil said it was by some distance the best meal he'd ever eaten. I wasn't so sure, thinking that I still preferred Winteringham Fields and the late lamented Altnaharrie : also, I wasn't sure I could really detect a great deal of difference between the one star (also late lamented) Amaryllis and the three star RGR. But we would both love to go back. What we had... Presents from the chef (1) : a) a tiny pastry horn filled with smoked salmon and caviare b) home made 'crisps' sandwiched together with cream cheese & trufflePresents from the chef (2) : 3 little tarts - a) mozzarella, tomato and& basil, b) ham based, c) chicken based Introducing the bread: white / brown / olive (with choice of salted or unsalted butter) Starters C : "Roasted tranche of foie gras with endive chutney, confit shallots, potato galette & Sauternes sauce", with a glass of Tokay P: "Ravioli of langoustine & lobster poached in a light bisque with a lemon grass and chervil veloute" with a glass of Gruener Veltliner Presents from the chef (3) : some sort of alcohol based sorbet |
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